We awoke to grey skies and thunderstorms on Wednesday. With open seas and waves 3-4 meters (not feet!), we ditched the plan to visit Vis. Roko contacted a friend in Stari Grad who reserved a space for us at the docks.
We motored out in drizzly rain. That power boat poking way out into the fairway didn’t phase Roko. He passed between the boats with inches to spare. The sun started peeking out just as we arrived in Stari Grad. We were happy to have a reserved spot and tipped Roko’s friend for taking care of us.
Stari Grad means ‘old city’ in Croatian. It’s one of the oldest towns in Europe and one of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. Most of the buildings are made from white marble mined on Hvar, the same material used to build The White House.
We wandered the narrow alleys near the harbor and saw several ancient churches.
For dinner we took a 15 minute taxi ride up into the hills to Konoba Vrisnik, another fabulous restaurant experience arranged by Roko.
We tried Peka which is the signature dish of Croatia. It’s vegetables topped by meat and drizzled with olive oil and herbs slow-cooked on a brick grill. We ordered lamb and octopus. Both were delicious but I preferred the lamb. Octopus tastes a lot like lobster but I can’t get past the appearance of octopus tentacles! I also tried squid ink risotto – it’s very black and tastes like the bottom of the ocean.
Our meal ended with the traditional flavored grappa.
The big boats were all in party mode when we got back to the docks. We walked along the waterfront and did some star-gazing. The moon was visible most of the week along with both Venus and Jupiter.
The next morning Skip and I found a bakery with fresh-baked croissant and crazy-good chocolate donuts.
We left Stari Grad and motored into light winds to a lunch spot near Milna. After lunch we jumped in for a swim in the brisk waters.
Our next stop was Stormoska, a quiet fishing village. To be continued…