We awoke to grey skies and thunderstorms on Wednesday.  With open seas and waves 3-4 meters (not feet!), we ditched the plan to visit Vis.  Roko contacted a friend in Stari Grad who reserved a space for us at the docks.

We motored out in drizzly rain.  That power boat poking way out into the fairway didn’t phase Roko.  He passed between the boats with inches to spare.  The sun started peeking out just as we arrived in Stari Grad.  We were happy to have a reserved spot and tipped Roko’s friend for taking care of us.

Emily prepared for the chilly weather

Stari Grad means ‘old city’ in Croatian.  It’s one of the oldest towns in Europe and one of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen.  Most of the buildings are made from white marble mined on Hvar, the same material used to build The White House.

Stari Grad
Stari Grad

Official greeter
The official greeter at the dock. He was very interested in our lunch!

Narrow walkways

We wandered the narrow alleys near the harbor and saw several ancient churches.

Stari Grad

Walking around Stari Grad
Wandering tourists



Local market
Fresh fruit in the local market. The peaches and tomatoes were delicious.

Stari Grad
Quintessential Croatian scene

Stari Grad
Building made of Hvar stone

Stari Grad
A future painting?

Stari Grad
The view from our stern was a private estate turned into a classy hotel

Lots of neighbors in the marina
Plenty of neighbors at the docks

Stari Grad
I love the driftwood sailboat

Vino store
Eva and I went into the Vino store and sampled the local wines poured from large kegs. We found a white that was drinkable and filled up 2 liter water bottles for less than $10.

Gangplank of doom
The gangplank to get on and off the boat was tricky. You needed momentum and commitment to succeed!

For dinner we took a 15 minute taxi ride up into the hills to Konoba Vrisnik, another fabulous restaurant experience arranged by Roko.

Dinner outing

Dinner outing

Beautiful restaurant in the hills near Stari Grad
We were greeted warmly by the owner.

Stari Grad
Beautiful scenery

Dinner near Stari Grad
Another great meal

We tried Peka which is the signature dish of Croatia. It’s vegetables topped by meat and drizzled with olive oil and herbs slow-cooked on a brick grill. We ordered lamb and octopus. Both were delicious but I preferred the lamb. Octopus tastes a lot like lobster but I can’t get past the appearance of octopus tentacles! I also tried squid ink risotto – it’s very black and tastes like the bottom of the ocean.

Peka cooking
Peka is cooking. Those heavy lids covered with coals top the pans while cooking.

Lamb Peka
Lamb Peka. The vegetables cooked in lamb juices were delicious.

Our meal ended with the traditional flavored grappa.

The big boats were all in party mode when we got back to the docks. We walked along the waterfront and did some star-gazing. The moon was visible most of the week along with both Venus and Jupiter.

The next morning Skip and I found a bakery with fresh-baked croissant and crazy-good chocolate donuts.

Yummy chocolate donuts
I love these!

We left Stari Grad and motored into light winds to a lunch spot near Milna.  After lunch we jumped in for a swim in the brisk waters.

Leaving Stari Grad
Leaving Stari Grad

Happy sailors
Happy sailors

Lunch anchor near Milna
Pretty water

Sailing to Stomorska
View towards the mainland

Our next stop was Stormoska, a quiet fishing village. To be continued…